Sandy City presenter outlines how homeowners can switch from sprinklers to drip irrigation and access incentives

Nikki, an outreach and education specialist with Sandy City Public Utilities, walked webinar attendees through how to convert sprinkler systems to drip irrigation and what to expect for costs, run times and rebates. "Drip irrigation is the most efficient," Nikki said, adding that drip systems typically run longer but use water more directly at plant roots.

The presentation outlined practical steps for homeowners: inventory and map existing zones, identify which sprinkler station controls each area, choose between inline and point‑source drip, and install a pressure reducer and filter before the drip inlet. Nikki advised that when retrofitting, "you have to switch the whole zone" to drip or add a separate valve so the drip can run on its own schedule, noting that mixing overhead spray and drip on one zone is inefficient.

Nikki provided technical guidance used in the field: standard spacing guidance (lines and emitters commonly spaced about 12 inches for dense plantings), a working rule of roughly 200 square feet of irrigated area per drip system inlet, and suggested parts including half‑inch emitter tubing, fittings, tube stakes, flush end caps and an optional air valve for noisy lines. She described two main drip types: inline drip (built‑in emitters in medium‑duty tubing) and point‑source drip (modular emitters connected by quarter‑inch spaghetti tubing).

She contrasted typical system performance: overhead spray in suburban settings averages about 50% application efficiency while drip ranges 90–98% efficiency, and noted typical runtime differences: spray zones often run minutes per cycle while drip needs longer runs (often 30–60 minutes) at lower pressure. Nikki recommended visiting Utah Water Savers and checking the Division of Water Resources spreadsheet to confirm eligibility for the statewide landscape incentive program, and noted that some local programs offer rebates that can improve return on investment.

During audience Q&A, Nikki addressed retrofit specifics: retrofit kits that include pressure reducers and filters can be sufficient for small conversions (about 200 square feet per kit); if a homeowner is converting a small park strip tied to a larger lawn zone, they should either convert the entire zone or install a new valve dedicated to the park strip. She also discussed winterizing (draining or blowing out lines) and options to protect retrofit components in park strips (irrigation boxes, lower risers, or moving risers inward where feasible).

The session closed with links and resources for further help, including local irrigation specialty stores, Qualified Water Efficient Landscaper (QWEL) certification as a hiring filter for contractors, USU Extension resources, and local conservation garden parks for hands‑on examples.