A virtual presentation hosted by the Utah Division of Water Resources reviewed end‑of‑season yard care and water‑wise landscaping practices for homeowners and landscapers. Casey Finlinson of the Central Utah Water Conservancy District led the session and answered audience questions on irrigation shutdowns, tree protection and winter maintenance methods.

The session emphasized water conservation and compliance with the Divisions landscape incentive program, which offers up to $3 per square foot for lawn replaced with water‑efficient landscaping (the programs per‑square‑foot amount varies by location). "If you are planning to participate in the program, please do not kill your lawn until the project has been approved," Candace Scheible, water conservation coordinator with the Division of Water Resources, said at the start of the presentation.

Finlinson outlined concrete actions homeowners should consider before winter. He recommended checking soil moisture and, if needed, giving a final deep watering to trees and plants so roots enter winter with adequate moisture. He advised lowering warm‑season and cool‑season lawn heights gradually (summer: about 2½–3 inches; winter target: about 1½–2 inches) to reduce disease risk such as snow mold.

On irrigation systems, Finlinson said homeowners should shut down automatic sprinklers in mid‑October through November in the northern Wasatch Front area and perform a winter "blowout" using an air compressor to clear water from pipes and zones. "We're basically connecting an air compressor to our sprinkler system to each zone and blowing as much of that water out of the system as we can get," he said, warning that water left in pipes can freeze, expand and crack fittings. He noted a typical professional blowout costs roughly $60–$75. He also urged draining backflow preventers where systems are tied to culinary water and detaching hoses to prevent freeze damage to house plumbing.

Fertilizer and weed control: Finlinson follows extension guidance to apply three fertilizer applications a year and said the third application typically goes down after Halloween; for that application he recommended a straight nitrogen product (ammonium sulfate or urea). He also said fall is the most effective time to apply herbicides for many perennial weeds because plants translocate materials into roots as they prepare for dormancy.

Mulch, bulbs and beds: Participants were advised to maintain 3–4 inches of organic mulch in planting beds to insulate roots, suppress weeds and conserve moisture, and to replenish mulch as it decomposes. Finlinson encouraged fall bulb planting (tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinth, allium) now for spring color. Vegetable beds should be cleared of diseased or decaying debris and amended with compost before spring.

Perennials and ornamental grasses: For many perennials Finlinson said it is acceptable to cut plants back to near ground level once foliage is fully dormant (leaving an inch or two of stubble if cutting in fall), but he also explained a common practice is to leave stems through winter for visual interest and habitat for beneficial insects and birds, then cut back in early spring. He prefers leaving ornamental grasses until March for winter interest, but trims specimens that obstruct sidewalks or snow removal.

Tree care and evergreens: For young trees with thin bark, Finlinson recommended loosely wrapping trunks from the base to the first branches for the first three to five years after planting to reduce freeze‑thaw damage and protect trunks from deer; wraps should be removed in March–April. He discouraged pruning in late fall because pruning can stimulate growth and increase vulnerability to cold; major pruning should wait until late winter or early spring.

Potted plants and microclimates: Finlinson noted potted perennials and trial plants are more exposed to cold and may need extra protection: group pots in sheltered locations, use insulated containers, or pile straw or shredded leaves around pots as an overwintering strategy. For potted tender specimens he advised moving them indoors when temperatures warrant.

Warm‑season grasses: For warm‑season varieties such as buffalo grass, Finlinson recommended not applying the late fall nitrogen application and keeping the turf fairly short (about 2 inches) during dormancy.

Audience questions covered timing for removing tree wraps, whether to paint tree trunks, precise perennial pruning timing for first‑year plantings and details on protecting pots. Finlinson deferred some specifics to county extension experts he cited (Weber County Extension, Utah County Extension and specialists such as Tom Bettis and Katie Wagner) and encouraged participants to consult those resources for localized guidance.

The webinar reiterated program guidance from the Division of Water Resources and the Central Utah Water Conservancy District: consult eligibility and program rules before altering lawns for incentive projects and use extension resources for technical horticultural questions. The recording will be shared with registrants and the Division will resume its monthly webinar series in February; participants were asked to complete the auto‑generated survey after the event.